Scroll down for the download link if you want to skip the boring part.
History with Logitech
I’m a loyal Logitech user. Every daily driver mouse in my life (up to the writing date) is Logitech-branded.
My first ever mouse came bundled with a pre-built Lenovo PC. While the top surface features a Lenovo logo, the bottom is engraved with a Logitech logo.
After buying a laptop for university. I chose the M505 laser mouse. It was superior to optical mice that time because it could operate on many surface where optical mice could not. This was very useful for portability. The accompanying Unifying receiver can connect another wireless keyboard simultaneously while occupy only one USB port on my laptop. The quality control of the microswitch is not good. I experienced double-clicking almost once per year. However, the after-sale warranty is very excellent. I can always get a “new” replacement if it breaks.
When working on my master’s degree, I bought a G602. Its battery life is exceptional among gaming mice. It has six thumb buttons. Aside from the two buttons for forward and back, I still have four to bind hotkeys conveniently. The quality control of the microswitch is same as M505. I replace multiple “new” one. Until one day, the G602 I send to service center did not return because they had stopped manufacturing it. The only thing they could do is refund some money based on the depreciation of the mouse.
Though at that time, the G603 has been released. It did not resemble the G602 much. It only had two thumb buttons forword and back. with none for additional biding. It did’nt even have the dual-mode free-scroll wheel. I have to temperaly use a G502 instead, which at least it has one more thumb button, and the hyper-fast scroll wheel.
While I had to use the G502 as gaming mouse. I bought an MX Master 2S for office use. It has no additional thumb button, but the scroll wheel is fascinating. It can be clicky at low speed, and free-scroll at high speed. The switch threshold can even be configured. It actully has a “palm button” that can be press by push the thumb downward, but I’ve never used it. However, that button has broken twice. I have to cut the trigger stem to disable it completely.
After years waiting, the G604 is released. It features a G602-like set of six thumb buttons and a G502-like scroll wheel. Although the auto-switching scroll wheel has never been seen on gaming series, I would have liked to see it. But a G502-like manual-switching scroll wheel is good enough. The G604 is almost the perfect mouse. The microswitch lasted two and half years this time. Taking it apart cost me about 20 minutes, and solding a pair of D2F-F-3-7 took 5 minutes. But after another half year, the rubber surface became unsuitable for the human hand. The most touched part was worned out, and the whole piece started peeling from edge.
Replacement
To fix the rubber, I decided to craft a replacement using 3D printing.
I used AESUB blue to spary the surface white and scanned it with a Revopoint Mini. After importing the scanned mesh into Fusion, I used T-spline to create the replacement rubber layer and cut out holes for the buttons, etc.
I didn’t intend to conduct full reverse engineering; I only want a replacement. Thus, the scan and rubber layer contains only the neccessary section. I 3D printed the replacement layer using eSun TPU 87A trasparent filament and Polymaker Polysupport for the support structures on a Raise3D E2 printer. Printing soft material is not that easy, especially with a thin shell-shaped model. I tilted the model slightly to make the support touched almost every point of the model.
There were some minor imperfections, but I managed to smooth the touching surface using razor blade. I also cut out the ribs in the thumb area. Double-sided tape is used to attach the replace layer to the mouse. I think it’s not neccessary to adhere it too tightly, as repairs are easy with the model and a 3D printer, allowing me to change the material and color whenever I want.
I think the overall experience is okay.
The scan data and rubber replacement model are free to use and can be downloaded from the links below. This is my first time using a T-Spline tool to create a real object. More experienced individuals could use the scan data to make a better model.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6569173
Future plans
Perhaps TPU 87A is not the best choice. Will try filaments that are harder or softer, matte or glossy. Also, for materials that are not 3D printable, I may use a mold.